ΚΟΙΝΩΝΙΑ, χρόνο

Στον ίσκιο των ελάτων

Βρισκόμαστε στις νοτιοανατολικές απολήξεις των Αγράφων, εκεί που σμίγει η Θεσσαλία με τη Στερεά Ελλάδα και μπερδεύουν τα όριά τους οι νομοί Ευρυτανίας, Φθιώτιδας και Καρδίτσας.

 

Πρόκειται για έναν ενδιαφέροντα ορεινό τόπο που κρύβει στον κόρφο του τα κεφαλοχώρια Φουρνά, Ρεντίνα, αλλά και τη νεότευκτη τοπιογραφία της λίμνης Σμοκόβου.

Η περιοχή προσεγγίζεται τόσο από τη Λαμία όσο και από την Καρδίτσα. Σε κάθε περίπτωση οι γρήγορες ανηφορικές στροφές θα μας ανεβάσουν σύντομα στη ζώνη των ελάτων, εκεί όπου κελαρύζουν τα νερά και οι ίσκιοι των κορφών παίζουν κρυφτό πίσω από τα πλατανόφυλλα.

Αν έρχεστε από τη νότια Ελλάδα, μπορείτε από τη Λαμία να συνεχίσετε μέσω της εθνικής οδού Λαμίας – Καρπενησιού προς Φουρνά και στη συνέχεια, διασχίζοντας ένα από τα ομορφότερα ελατοδάση της Ελλάδας, να βγείτε στη Ρεντίνα και να κατηφορίσετε προς τη λεκάνη της λίμνης Σμοκόβου.

Αν έρχεστε από την πόλη της Καρδίτσας ή γενικότερα από τη δυτική Θεσσαλία, η διαδρομή είναι ακριβώς αντίστροφη.

Ο δρόμος με μαεστρία ακολουθεί την κοίτη του ποταμού Ονόχωνου ή Σοφαδίτη (παραπόταμος του Πηνειού) που ελίσσεται ανάμεσα σε βράχια και παρόχθια πλατανοδάση και καταλήγει στο χωριό Λουτρά Σμοκόβου, όπου στα τετρακόσια μέτρα ύψος αναβλύζουν οι ομώνυμες ιαματικές πηγές.

Από τη στιγμή που δόθηκε στην κυκλοφορία η εθνική οδός Ε65 μπορείτε από το οροπέδιο του Δομοκού να κατευθυνθείτε προς Ξυνιάδα και να προσεγγίσετε άμεσα τη λίμνη Σμοκόβου. Αυτός είναι και ο πλέον γρήγορος τρόπος.

Λουτρά και λίμνη Σμοκόβου
Οι φυσικές ιαματικές πηγές Σμοκόβου βρίσκονται 35 χιλιόμετρα ΝΔ της Καρδίτσας, ενώ από τη Λαμία απέχουν 85 χιλιόμετρα.

Οι ευεργετικές και θεραπευτικές ιδιότητες των ιαματικών πηγών (θειούχες – αλκαλικές) ήταν γνωστές ήδη από την αρχαιότητα.

Το 1662 η εύπορη οικογένεια Στραβοένογλου -με καταγωγή από το Σμόκοβο- έχτισε κάποιες εγκαταστάσεις και υποτυπώδεις λουτήρες που εξυπηρετούσαν τους ασθενείς που έρχονταν εδώ, αναζητώντας ανακούφιση από την πάθηση που τους ταλαιπωρούσε. Από τους πιο διάσημους επισκέπτες της εποχής ήταν ο Αλή Πασάς των Ιωαννίνων και ο Μαχμούτ Πασάς.

Το 1882 τη διαχείριση των πηγών αναλαμβάνει το ελληνικό κράτος. Η διάνοιξη του δρόμου Καρδίτσας – Σμοκόβου γίνεται στις αρχές του 20ού αιώνα και αρχίζουν να εμφανίζονται τα πρώτα ξενοδοχεία, ενώ το 1923 χτίστηκε το πρώτο για την εποχή υδροθεραπευτήριο.

Το 1943 οι εγκαταστάσεις των λουτρών στέγασαν τη Σχολή Αξιωματικών του ΕΛΑΣ και για τον λόγο αυτόν τις ανατίναξαν οι Γερμανοί.

Σήμερα ένα σύγχρονο σπα, που διαθέτει πισίνα, γυμναστήριο, σάουνες, χαμάμ και αίθουσες χαλαρωτικού μασάζ, προσφέρει στους επισκέπτες του χαλάρωση, αναζωογόνηση και ευεξία. Για πληροφορίες επικοινωνήστε με το τηλέφωνο 24430 61210.

Η γειτονική λίμνη του Σμοκόβου είναι μια τεχνητή λίμνη. Μάλιστα θεωρείται μια από τις νεότερες λίμνες της Ελλάδας, καθώς τα έργα για την ύψωση φράγματος στην κοίτη του ποταμού Ονόχωνου ξεκίνησαν το 1990 και ολοκληρώθηκαν το 2003.

Τα νερά του ποταμού πλημμύρισαν μια έκταση 10.000 στρεμμάτων, ενώ η συνολική χωρητικότητα της λίμνης που σχηματίστηκε είναι 240 εκατ. κ.μ.

Το νερό αυτό χρησιμοποιείται αποκλειστικά για την άρδευση σχεδόν μισού εκατομμυρίου στρεμμάτων του Θεσσαλικού Κάμπου, ενώ παράλληλα θέτει σε λειτουργία δύο μονάδες παραγωγής ηλεκτρικού ρεύματος.

Στη Ρεντίνα της Αντίστασης
Από τα Λουτρά Σμοκόβου ο δρόμος, με έντονες στροφές (6 χλμ.), ανηφορίζει για το χωριό Λουτροπηγή (μέχρι το 1927 ονομαζόταν Σμόκοβο), που ατενίζει την ελλειψοειδή λεκάνη της λίμνης από ύψος 700 μέτρων.

Από εδώ, διασχίζοντας ένα από τα πιο ευχάριστα φυσικά τοπία της ανατολικής Ρούμελης, στα όρια των νομών Φθιώτιδας, Καρδίτσας και Ευρυτανίας, θα καταλήξετε στο κεφαλοχώρι της Ρεντίνας.

Σε αρκετά σημεία της διαδρομής θα έχετε την ευκαιρία να απολαύσετε μια θαυμάσια άποψη της λίμνης, του Θεσσαλικού Κάμπου και με καθαρό καιρό, την αεροπορικών διαστάσεων θέα στα κορφοβούνια του Βελουχιού, των Αγράφων, της Οίτης και των Βαρδουσίων.

Συνολικά από τη Λουτροπηγή θα διανύσετε 13 χιλιόμετρα ώς τη Ρεντίνα, που θα τη συναντήσετε σε ύψος 850 μέτρων.

Θεωρείται ένα από τα παλαιότερα χωριά του ορεινού όγκου, καθώς οι πρώτες γραπτές μαρτυρίες προέρχονται από επισκοπικό κατάλογο της Μητρόπολης Λαρίσης, όπου γινόταν αναφορά στην επισκοπή «Λιτής και Ρενδίνης» και χρονολογούνται το 856 μ.Χ. επί αυτοκράτορα Λέοντος Σοφού.

Το προσωνύμιο του χωριού στα χρόνια της Τουρκοκρατίας ήταν «Βασίλισσα των Αγράφων» αλλά και «Νύμφη των Αγράφων» και θεωρείτο ένα από τα πιο πλούσια κεφαλοχώρια της ορεινής Ρούμελης. Το χωριό φημιζόταν για τα μεγαλόπρεπα πέτρινα σπίτια του αλλά και την πλούσια βιβλιοθήκη του και τη σχολή όπου οι μαθητές διδάσκονταν σε υψηλό επίπεδο αρχαία ελληνικά, λατινικά και σύγχρονες επιστήμες.

Ο ρόλος της Ρεντίνας ήταν ιδιαίτερα σημαντικός κατά τη διάρκεια της Επανάστασης του 1821, καθώς τροφοδότησε τον αγώνα με χρήμα και πολεμιστές.

Ομως το χωριό καθιερώθηκε στη συνείδηση των νεότερων ως ένα από τα πιο σημαντικά μέρη της ελεύθερης Ελλάδας του βουνού, αφού εδώ κατά τη διάρκεια της γερμανοϊταλικής κατοχής λειτουργούσε η Σχολή Εφέδρων Αξιωματικών του ΕΛΑΣ, από την οποία αποφοίτησαν 1.260 μάχιμοι αξιωματικοί, ανάμεσά τους και γυναίκες!

Διευθυντής σπουδών ήταν ο συνταγματάρχης Γκικόπουλος, που είχε αποφοιτήσει από την Ανωτέρα Σχολή Πολέμου, πρώην στέλεχος του ΕΔΕΣ, ο οποίος στη συνέχεια εντάχθηκε στον ΕΛΑΣ, και καπετάνιος ο Φάνης Χριστούλας.

Μόλις 7 χιλιόμετρα από το χωριό υπάρχει το ομώνυμο μοναστήρι, με το θαυμάσια διατηρημένο καθολικό, που χρονολογείται από το 1640 και έχει αξιόλογες αγιογραφίες του 17ου αι.

Αφήνοντας πίσω την αρχοντική Ρεντίνα, ακολουθούμε τον ασφάλτινο δρόμο που χάνεται στο πυκνοδασωμένο ανάγλυφο διατηρώντας κατεύθυνση βορειοδυτική με προορισμό το κεφαλοχώρι της ανατολικής Ευρυτανίας, την ιστορική Φουρνά.

Η διαδρομή αυτή παλιότερα ήταν μια από τις ειδικές χωμάτινες διαδρομές στο Ράλι Ακρόπολις, γνωστή με την ονομασία «Ταρζάν».

Εδώ, σε μια καλύβα στην άκρη του δάσους, έζησε ο σύγχρονος Φουρνιώτης «ερημίτης» Γιώργος Μπούργος ή «Ταρζάν», όπως τον έλεγαν χαριτολογώντας οι συχωριανοί του.

Καθώς βρισκόμαστε σε τόπο ορεινό, οι στροφές θα πρέπει να θεωρηθούν δεδομένες. Συντονιστείτε λοιπόν με τις διαθέσεις του βουνού και αφήστε τη διαδρομή χιλιόμετρο το χιλιόμετρο να σας μυήσει στα μυστικά των Αγράφων.

Βέβαια τούτη την εποχή που οι θερμοκρασίες είναι πάντα χαμηλές, κυρίως το πρωί, ακόμη και με καλό καιρό υπάρχει ο κίνδυνος του πάγου που καιροφυλακτεί στα σκιερά σημεία.

Οδηγείτε με σύνεση και προσοχή για να χαρείτε χωρίς άγχος τα υπέροχα τοπία που κινηματογραφικά θα ξεδιπλώνονται μπροστά στα μάτια σας.

Στην πορεία σας θα διασχίσετε το πυκνόφυτο ελατόδασος που καταλαμβάνει τα υψώματα στη θέση Ζαχαράκη.

Στο εκκλησάκι των Αγ. Αναργύρων υπάρχει χώρος αναψυχής, όπου αν ο καιρός είναι καλός, αξίζει να σταματήσετε για λίγο και να απολαύσετε την άγρια ορεινή ομορφιά του τοπίου.

Συνολικά από τη Ρεντίνα ώς τη Φουρνά θα διανύσετε 20 χιλιόμετρα και αν είστε λάτρεις του ορεινού τοπίου θα εύχεστε να μην τελειώσουν ποτέ.

Με τη Φουρνά έχουμε ασχοληθεί εκτενώς σε παλιότερο ταξιδιωτικό μας άρθρο. Απλά να σας θυμίσουμε ότι από εδώ αν θέλετε μπορείτε να συνεχίσετε προς Καρπενήσι (40 χιλιόμετρα) ή να κατηφορίσετε προς Λαμία (75 χιλιόμετρα).

Επίσης μπορείτε να τραβήξετε βόρεια προς Κλειτσό, «Σπίτι Διαβάτη», Νεράιδα Δολοπών, με τελικό προορισμό τη Λίμνη Πλαστήρα.

Διαδρομή πανέμορφη, αλλά που δεν θα σας παροτρύνουμε για ευνόητους λογούς να την ακολουθήσετε τους χειμερινούς μήνες.

Πιείτε λοιπόν ένα τσίπουρο στην ιστορική πλατεία της Φουρνάς, δείτε την περίφημη εκκλησία της Μεταμόρφωσης με τις τοιχογραφίες του γνωστού αγιογράφου Διονυσίου (1670-1744), αφήστε τους ντόπιους να σας διηγηθούν πώς οι μπιστικοί του Αλή Πασά έστησαν καρτέρι και σκότωσαν τον θρυλικό οπλαρχηγό Λεπενιώτη και αφού πάρετε μερικές τελευταίες ανάσες βουνίσιου αέρα, πάρτε τον δρόμο της επιστροφής.

Η Ρεντίνα σήμερα, παρά τα εμφανή σημάδια της παρακμής στα παλιά πετρόχτιστα αρχοντικά και τις εκκλησίες (ο οικισμός είναι αναγνωρισμένος παραδοσιακός), διαθέτει υποδομή για διαμονή και είναι ένας θαυμάσιος τόπος για ολιγοήμερες χειμερινές διακοπές.

Οπωσδήποτε θα πρέπει να επισκεφθείτε το Μουσείο Εθνικής Αντίστασης Αγράφων που στεγάζεται στο δημοτικό σχολείο, αλλά και το ενδιαφέρον Εκκλησιαστικό Μουσείο Βυζαντινής και Μεταβυζαντινής Τέχνης και το Λαογραφικό και Ιστορικό Μουσείο Ρεντίνας.

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  93. viagry bez recepty bez recepty moze stosowac wiekszosc mezczyzn, poniewaz przeciwwskazania sa niewielkie i bardzo czesto jakiekolwiek dolegliwosci wymuszaja jedynie wieksza ostroznosc lub ograniczenie dawki do najmniejszej. Aby kuracja byla bezpieczna, umow sie na wizyte do urologa, ktory analizujac Twoj problem, zaproponuje odpowiednia porcje z uwzglednieniem Twojego stanu zdrowia, trybu zycia i przyjmowanych innych lekow. Kiedy nie zaleca sie stosowania viagry bez recepty?

  94. Ceny są niepotwierdzone, ale prawdopodobnie wynoszą około 5 GBP za tabletkę. Decyzja MHRA następuje po wygaśnięciu wyłącznego patentu Pfizer na Viagrę bez recepty w 2013 r., Po czym innym firmom farmaceutycznym zezwolono na dostarczanie własnych tabletek Sildenafilu, a ceny zostały obniżone. Ostatnio (14 listopada 2017 r.) Patent wygasł dla Cialis (innego popularnego leku na zaburzenia erekcji), a cena generycznego Cialis („Tadalafil”) jest znacznie niższa. bez recepty

  95. Mam 60 lat i jestem aktywny seksualnie. Cena Viagry Lubie seks i moge z pelna swiadomoscia powiedziec, ze jestem obecnie w doskonalej formie. koszt viagry Nie zawsze tak bylo. Po 50. roku zycia zaobserwowalem u siebie problem z erekcja. Wiedzialem, ze tak musi byc, nie jestem juz 20-latkiem. Czasami z zona udawal nam sie dobry seks, ale z kazdym kolejnym rokiem zaspokajalem swoja partnerke coraz rzadziej. Nie moglem osiagnac wzwodu, a kiedy juz mi sie udawalo, trwal zaledwie kilkanascie sekund. Pomogla mi Viagra, ktora polecil mi moj przyjaciel.

  96. Legalny rynek jest już ogromny i rośnie. Recepty potroiły się w ciągu ostatniej dekady do prawie 3 mln . Jednak sprzedaż nielicencjonowanych leków ED pozostaje dochodowym i pozbawionym skrupułów biznesem: spośród podrobionych Viagry o wartości 50 milionów funtów i innych podobnych leków zajętych w Wielkiej Brytanii w ciągu ostatnich pięciu lat, stwierdzono, że zawierają gips w Paryżu, atrament drukarski, a nawet arsen . Dwa powody przemawiają za nielegalnym rynkiem. Po pierwsze, wysoka cena Viagry została pierwotnie sprzedana. Znacznie spadło to w 2013 r., Kiedy wyczerpał się 15-letni wyłączny patent Pfizera.

  97. bować 50 mg co najmniej 4 razy, zanim zdecydujesz, że nie działa, ponieważ może to wymagać kilku prób, aby twoje ciało odpowiednio zareagowało na Viagrę. Która dawka działa najlepiej? Najbardziej skuteczna dawka Viagry wynosi technicznie 100 mg , ponieważ zapewnia najwyższą ilość leków mających na celu poprawę erekcji. Jednak to, co twój lekarz będzie musiał rozważyć, to twoje zdrowie i to, czy maksymalna dawka Viagry może być dla Ciebie zarówno skuteczna, jak i bezpieczna . Celem jest upewnienie się, że dawka jest wystarczająco wysoka, aby zobaczyć pozytywne efekty Viagry, ale bez odczuwania skutków ubocznych. Są one bardziej prawdopodobne

  98. we krwi, co zwiększa prawdopodobieństwo wystąpienia działań niepożądanych obniżyć dawkę, jeśli działania niepożądane zakłócają życie (najpierw porozmawiaj z lekarzem) Co powinienem zrobić, jeśli myślę, że mam skutki uboczne? Jeśli możesz wytrzymać łagodne skutki uboczne przyjmowania Viagry, nie musisz niczego zmieniać. Powinieneś skontaktować się z lekarzem i omówić zmiany dawek lub leczenia z Viagry, jeśli doświadczasz skutków ubocznych, które zakłócają twoje życie. Obniżenie dawki może być opcją, aby ogólnie zmniejszyć skutki uboczne. Lekarz najprawdopodobniej zmieniłby leczenie z Viagry, jeśli wystąpią jakiekolwiek poważne działania

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