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Δεν μου έφτασε ένα βιβλίο για να αφηγηθώ όλα όσα ζήσαμε με τον Τσε

Μου φαίνεται σαν να ήταν χθες. Ωστόσο δεν είναι έτσι: πάνω από 60 χρόνια έχουν περάσει, 64 για την ακρίβεια, αν δεν με απατά η μνήμη μου. Στις 10 Ιουλίου του 1953, ο Ερνέστο κι εγώ μπήκαμε για πρώτη φορά στην πόλη Βιγιασόν της Βολιβίας. Εκείνος ήταν 25 κι εγώ 24 ετών.

Ο Ερνέστο μόλις είπε πάρει το πτυχίο Ιατρικής. Υπάρχει τεκμήριο της διαμονής μας σε εκείνη την πόλη που συνορεύει με τη Λα Κιάκα (Αργεντινή). Πριν από λίγο καιρό παραβρέθηκα στα αποκαλυπτήρια δύο μπρούντζινων πλακετών που μαρτυρούν το πέρασμά μας από εκείνη την πόλη και που γράφουν περίπου το εξής: «στις 10 Ιουλίου του 1953 ένας νεαρός γιατρός, ο Ερνέστο Γκεβάρα ντε λα Σέρνα, ο οποίος θα γινόταν αργότερα ο Κομαντάντε Ερνέστο Τσε Γκεβάρα, πέρασε από αυτή την πόλη μαζί με τον φίλο του Κάρλος Καλίκα Φερέρ».

Ακούγαμε ακόμα στα αυτιά μας τους αποχαιρετισμούς στον σιδηροδρομικό σταθμό Ρετίρο του Μπουένος Αϊρες. Ηταν αποχαιρετισμοί χαράς και θλίψης συνάμα. Εκεί ήταν οι μητέρες μας, Σέλια και Ντόλι, ο πατέρας του Ερνέστο, τα αδέρφια μας, οι φίλες και φίλοι μας. Υπήρχαν κι άβολες στιγμές: εκεί μας συνάντησαν και κάποια φλερτ μας, χωρίς όμως να γίνει φασαρία χάρη στη συγκίνηση που επικρατούσε στην ατμόσφαιρα.

Δίχως αμφιβολία και με δεδομένο το ποιοι άνθρωποι είχαν έρθει να μας αποχαιρετήσουν, ήταν προφανές ότι δεν ταιριάζαμε καθόλου με το βαγόνι δεύτερης κατηγορίας στο οποίο επρόκειτο να ταξιδέψουμε. Ξύλινα καθίσματα, κρύο πολύ, ακούγαμε συμβουλές της τελευταίας στιγμής. «μόλις μπορείτε στείλτε κανένα γράμμα», «πρόσεχε πολύ τον Ερνεστίτο», ενώ η μητέρα μου έλεγε στον Ερνέστο: «εσύ έχεις περισσότερη εμπειρία στα ταξίδια, πρόσεχε τον Καλίκα». Και τότε ήταν που ο Ερνέστο είπε: «αυτή τη φορά το όνομα του συνοδοιπόρου έχει αλλάξει, ο Αλμπέρτο ονομάζεται τώρα Καλίκα».

Αυτές είναι λεπτομέρειες και ιστορίες. Υπάρχουν και πολλές άλλες, αλλά θα τις φυλάξω για κάποια άλλη στιγμή. Δεν προλάβαμε καν να φτάσουμε στο Βιγιασόν και αντιμετωπίσαμε μια σοβαρή κρίση άσθματος του Ερνέστο και εγώ από την τρομάρα μου παραλίγο να πάθω καρδιακή προσβολή. Λίγες μέρες αργότερα φύγαμε για τη Λα Πας της Βολιβίας, έχοντας ανακτήσει τις δυνάμεις μας και με περισσότερη άνεση.

Η εμπειρία του Ερνέστο τον έκανε αρχηγό αυτής της εκστρατείας που είχαμε ξεκινήσει για «να γνωρίσουμε τον αγώνα κατά της λέπρας στη Νότια Αμερική», ιδέα που επαναλαμβάναμε κάθε φορά που διασχίζαμε χωριά, πόλεις και σύνορα. Μας διασκέδαζε η ιδέα ότι ο «κοντούλης Γρανάδο», που εργαζόταν ως βιοχημικός στο λεπροκομείο Κάμπο Μπλάνκο Μαϊκετία, στη Βενεζουέλα, θα έπρεπε να μας εξασφαλίσει σπίτι, φαγητό και ρούμι μέχρι να βρούμε καμιά δουλειά.

«σε γενέθλια στον κήπο της οικογένειας Πένια. Ο Ερνέστο κοιτά μπροστά και φαίνεται θυμωμένος. Πιθανόν επειδή ήταν ο μόνος εκείνο το καλοκαιρινό απόγευμα που φορούσε μάλλινο γιλέκο λόγω του άσθματός του. Εγώ, στην πρώτη γραμμή με το κεφάλι γυρισμένο» |

Ο Αλμπέρτο, από το προηγούμενο ταξίδι που είχε κάνει με τον Ερνέστο, γνώριζε πολύ καλά τις δυσκολίες που επρόκειτο να αντιμετωπίσουμε, και γι’ αυτό θα μας βοηθούσε με τα μπολίβαρ που θα είχε εξοικονομήσει.

Και φτάσαμε στη Λα Πας. «ενας ζωντανός πίνακας!». Δύο εντελώς διαφορετικοί πολιτισμοί στα 3.800 μέτρα πάνω από τη θάλασσα, η επιβλητική ομορφιά του βουνού Ιλιμάνι, πάντα χιονισμένο και με κάτι ξεχωριστό: ένα σπουδαίο ιστορικό και πολιτικό γεγονός επρόκειτο να σημαδέψει το μέλλον μας, ιδιαίτερα του Ερνέστο. Ενα απελευθερωτικό κίνημα κυβερνούσε τη χώρα. Χρόνια αργότερα, με τον σύντροφο πρόεδρο Εβο Μοράλες, αυτό το κίνημα γινόταν πάλι πραγματικότητα με καθοριστικά γεγονότα: την αγροτική μεταρρύθμιση, την εθνικοποίηση των ορυχείων, τη διάλυση του στρατού και την οπλοφορία των ανθρακωρύχων, οι οποίοι ήταν φρουροί της κοινωνικής ειρήνης.

Αυτή η επανάσταση καθώς και ο πόλεμος της Ισπανίας, πιστεύω εγώ, υπήρξαν καθοριστικοί για την πολιτική διαμόρφωση του Ερνέστο. Κι αν άργησε η αναγνώριση του φίλου μου, σήμερα πλέον δεν γνωρίζει όρια, και πια μπορώ να πω με κάποιο αίσθημα αντεκδίκησης πως οι εχθροί του (πληρωμένοι στην πλειονότητά τους) θα έχουν ξεχαστεί, ενώ η εικόνα του θα εξακολουθεί να μεγαλώνει.

Είχαμε προγραμματίσει να μείνουμε στη Βολιβία 7 με 8 μέρες, αλλά τελικά καθίσαμε πάνω από έναν μήνα. Ζήσαμε συνταρακτικά γεγονότα, ιδίως αν σκεφτεί κανείς τη νεαρή μας ηλικία και την ελάχιστη πολιτική μας εμπειρία. Είδαμε την παρέλαση των ανθρακωρύχων, με ανέκφραστο πρόσωπο, μασούρια δυναμίτη στη ζώνη σαν να ήταν χειροβομβίδες, τουφέκια, πολυβόλα, έδιναν την εντύπωση ότι ήταν αήττητοι (δεν ξέραμε ότι είχε ξεκινήσει το τέλος αυτής της επανάστασης που χρόνια αργότερα θα ξαναγεννιόταν καλύτερη με την άφιξη του Εβο Μοραλες στην προεδρία, με απόλυτη δημοκρατία και με σαρωτική πλειοψηφία).

«ο Ερνέστο μαζί με την παρέα “φτωχών” φίλων. Από μικρός τον έβρισκες σε κάθε είδους κοινωνικό περιβάλλον. Ετσι όπως έκανε παρέα με παιδιά καλών οικογενειών, με τον ίδιο τρόπο ζούσε χιλιάδες περιπέτειες με τα παιδιά των φτωχότερων. Σ’ αυτήν τη φωτογραφία ο Ερνέστο φορά όπως πάντα γιλέκο και μακρυμάνικο»

Δεν μου έφτασε ένα βιβλίο για να αφηγηθώ όλα όσα ζήσαμε εκεί. Ωστόσο τα έχω μέσα στο μυαλό και την καρδιά μου. Ελπίζω να έχω τον χρόνο να τα διηγηθώ.

Για να εκτιμήσουμε αυτή την επανάσταση έφτανε να συγκρίνουμε με την κατάσταση που αντικρίσαμε όταν διασχίσαμε τα σύνορα του Περού. Η ίδια εξαθλίωση, αλλά χωρίς προοπτική για το μέλλον, κάτω από τη σιδερένια πυγμή ενός δικτάτορα, του στρατηγού Οντρια. Στο Περού επίσης είδαμε θαύματα όπως το Μάτσου Πίτσου, αλλά και την ίδια πε

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